Wednesday, 19 October 2011

Sport Climbing in Mallorca

We've just gotten back from a fantastic two weeks in Mallorca, an Island much known for it's sun and sangria and perhaps the dubious delights of Magaluf etc!
What it is less well known for, is it's amazing Rock Climbing. The Island is covered, and in fact made of, some of the best Limestone in the Med and for years the locals have been doing their best to explore and bolt the enormous amount of rock available out there.
The climbing is first class, with plenty of easier stuff; although maybe not as much as say Costa Blanca and the easier venues are getting battered for sure. But if you are climbing in the 5+ - 6c range then there is soo much to go at. We climbed for 12 days, went to a different crag everyday and did a total of 70 routes, and most of them 25-30m long!
It does have a few venues with bad, rusty bolts, but very few of the old 8mm ones you find elsewhere and a few places have big gaps between bolts on easier routes (of course easier is a relative term, 10ft between bolts on 6a+ can get a bit scary!) but generally the place goes off.
Rock Fax make an excellent guide and I'd definately encourage everyone to be careful with parking, rubbish and general access stuff as the locals have fought long and hard to get access to each and every crag.
If you are thinking about a trip, get in touch and we can recommend some local british instructors , justin and sam, who are super experienced and know the Island well.
And as for the weather? 30', clear skies and a light breeze. Climb all morning, go for a swim and drink sangria all evening! Nice!
Cheers, Mark and Ali